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Type A + 6mA DC 漏電保護:一個唔可以慳的部件Type A + 6mA DC protection: the part you can't skip

電動車充電會產生直流漏電成分,普通漏電開關偵測唔到。呢個係最容易被慳、而客戶又最難察覺嘅一忽。EV charging can produce DC residual current that an ordinary RCD cannot see. It's the easiest corner to cut and the hardest for a customer to notice.

Type A + 6mA DC 漏電保護:一個唔可以慳的部件

如果你只記得這篇文章的一件事,記住這句:

家用漏電開關(RCD)分很多種,而其中一種救不到電動車充電。

這是整個充電樁安裝裏面,最容易被省掉、而客戶又幾乎無法察覺的一個部件。裝完之後外觀一模一樣,充電一樣充得到,分別只會在出事那一刻才出現。

漏電保護在做什麼

正常情況下,電流出去多少、回來多少,兩者應該相等。如果回來的少了,代表有電流經由其他路徑流走了 —— 可能是經過絕緣破損的位置,也可能是經過人體。

漏電開關就是量度這個差額。差額超過設定值(家用一般 30mA),它在幾十毫秒內切斷電源。30mA 這個數字不是隨便定的,它低於一般成年人心室纖顫的門檻。

問題在哪裡

漏電開關有不同型號,對應不同波形的漏電電流:

  • Type AC:只偵測正弦波交流漏電。最普通、最平,屋企好多舊裝置用這種。
  • Type A:偵測交流 加上 脈動直流漏電。
  • Type B:偵測包括平滑直流在內的所有形態。最貴。

電動車充電時,車上的整流電路可能產生直流漏電成分。而直流漏電有一個惡劣的特性:

它不但令 Type AC 開關偵測不到自己,還會使開關內部的磁芯飽和,連原本偵測得到的交流漏電都一併失靈

即是說,接了一個會產生直流漏電的充電裝置在 Type AC 開關後面,你可能同時失去對交流漏電的保護。這不是「保護弱一點」,是「保護可能整個失效」。

正確做法

電動車充電線路的標準要求是:

Type A 漏電開關(30mA)+ 6mA 直流漏電偵測

6mA DC 偵測的部分,可以是:

  • 內置在充電樁本身(大部分合規充電樁都有,包括我們主推的 Wall Case 3),或
  • 由一個獨立的 RDC-DD 裝置提供,或
  • 使用 Type B 漏電開關(成本較高,一般家用不必要)

最常見亦最合理的組合,是配電箱用 Type A 30mA,充電樁內置 6mA DC 偵測

點樣自己查

裝完之後,你可以做兩件事:

1. 睇配電箱那個開關的標示。 開關面板上會印一個符號:

  • 波浪線 = Type AC
  • 波浪線加一條有缺口的直線 = Type A

如果你的充電樁線路配的是 Type AC,應該提出來問。

2. 要電力測試紀錄。 合規的工程完成後應該有一份簽署的測試紀錄,上面會列明絕緣阻值、接地阻值、漏電開關跳脫時間等。冇紀錄本身就是一個訊號。

為什麼要特別寫這一篇

因為這個部件的差價不算大,但它是慳得最無聲無息的一忽。線徑細一點你可能看得出,走線馬虎你一定看得出,但漏電開關型號錯了 —— 裝好之後從外面完全看不出來。

我們不做「便宜一點但省掉這些」的版本。不是因為特別高尚,而是因為這一忽出事的時候,沒有補救的機會。

對你現有的安裝有疑問?WhatsApp 傳一張配電箱的相給我們,我們可以幫你看看那個漏電開關是什麼型號。這個不收費,就算不是我們裝的也一樣。

If you remember one thing from this article, make it this:

Residual current devices come in types, and one of those types can't protect EV charging.

It's the easiest component in the whole installation to leave out, and the one a customer has almost no way of noticing. It looks identical afterwards, the car charges fine, and the difference only shows up at the moment something goes wrong.

What residual current protection does

Normally the current going out and the current coming back are equal. If less comes back, some of it left by another path — through damaged insulation, or through a person.

An RCD measures that difference. When it exceeds the set value (typically 30mA domestically) it cuts the supply within tens of milliseconds. The 30mA figure isn't arbitrary; it sits below the threshold for ventricular fibrillation in a typical adult.

Where the problem is

RCDs come in types matched to the waveform of the leakage:

  • Type AC: detects sinusoidal AC leakage only. The cheapest and most common, and what a lot of older domestic installations use.
  • Type A: detects AC plus pulsating DC leakage.
  • Type B: detects everything including smooth DC. The most expensive.

While charging, rectifier circuits in the car can produce a DC leakage component. DC leakage has a nasty property:

Not only can a Type AC device fail to see it — it can saturate the device's magnetic core, so that the AC leakage it would normally catch stops being detected too.

So putting a charger that produces DC leakage behind a Type AC device can cost you your AC protection as well. That isn't "slightly weaker protection", it's "protection that may not work at all".

What's actually required

The standard for an EV charging circuit is:

Type A RCD (30mA) plus 6mA DC leakage detection

The 6mA DC part can come from:

  • The charger itself (most compliant units include it, including the Wall Case 3 we fit), or
  • A separate RDC-DD device, or
  • A Type B RCD (costlier, and usually unnecessary domestically)

The common and sensible combination is Type A 30mA at the board, with 6mA DC detection built into the charger.

How to check yours

Two things you can do after installation:

Look at the marking on the device. The faceplate carries a symbol:

  • A sine wave = Type AC
  • A sine wave plus a broken straight line = Type A

If your charging circuit is on a Type AC device, raise it.

Ask for the electrical test record. A compliant job ends with a signed record listing insulation resistance, earth resistance, RCD trip times and so on. No record is itself a signal.

Why this one gets its own article

Because the price difference is small, but it's the quietest possible corner to cut. Undersized cable you might spot. Sloppy routing you'd definitely spot. The wrong RCD type is invisible once the cover is on.

We don't offer a cheaper version without it. Not out of virtue — but because when this particular part matters, there's no second chance.

Unsure about an existing installation? WhatsApp us a photo of your distribution board and we'll tell you what type the device is. No charge, even if we didn't install it.

有問題想查詢?Got a question?

不一定要幫襯才可以查詢。傳送你的情況給我們,我們一樣會回答。You don't have to be a customer to ask. Send us your situation and we'll answer anyway.

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