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村屋單相定三相?睇電錶箱就知你裝到 7kW 定 22kWSingle-phase or three-phase? For a village house, the meter box decides

22kW 三相要兩個條件同時成立:屋企有三相電,部車又收得到 22kW AC。兩個條件之中,第一個站在你家門外的電錶箱裏,行過去看一眼就有答案。Three-phase 22kW needs two things at once — three-phase at the house, and a car that can actually take 22kW AC. The first one is settled by the box on your outside wall.

村屋車主查詢充電樁,最常卡在同一個位:「我應該裝 7kW 定 22kW?」

這條問題其實有兩層。第一層是「我需要幾快」 —— 這一層我們另外寫過一篇,用泊車時數倒推功率,結論通常是 7kW 已經夠:7kW 定 22kW?大部分人其實用唔著 22kW。

第二層是「我裝唔裝到」 —— 這一層是村屋獨有的,因為村屋的供電情況比屋苑彈性得多,而且答案就掛在你家外牆上。這篇講第二層。

先落樓去看一眼電錶箱

不用量電壓,不用查文件。行到電錶箱前面,看兩樣東西:電錶下面有幾多條線出來,以及電錶本身的標示。

村屋屋外電錶櫃,內有三個單相電錶及各自的保險絲座 典型的村屋屋外電錶櫃。每戶一個單相電錶,每個電錶只接一組火線/中性線,下面一個保險絲座。

單相供電的樣子:電錶接出來的是一條火線 + 一條中性線,錶下通常只有一個保險絲或一個單極掣。標示會寫 220V 或 230V。

打開的村屋三相電錶箱,三個電錶、多組保險絲座及刀掣 三相供電的分別一眼看得出:三條火線分開走,保險絲座及刀掣成組出現,不是單獨一個。

三相供電的樣子:三條火線 + 一條中性線,錶後面是一整排(三組或四組)保險絲/刀掣。標示會寫 380V 或 400V。

重要的一點:外牆電錶櫃有三相,不代表你屋內接到三相。 村屋的電錶櫃經常是幾戶共用,裏面三個單相電錶排在一起,遠看像三相,其實每一個都是獨立的單相供電。要看的是屬於你那個錶接出來幾多條火線。

兩者的實際分別

項目 7kW 單相 22kW 三相
供電 單相 220–230V 三相 380–400V
電流 32A 32A × 3
60kWh 電池充滿 約 8–10 小時 約 3–4 小時
村屋普遍程度 大部分村屋原有 較少,多數要申請升級
工程 相對簡單 可能連帶三相升級工程
車輛支援 幾乎全部電動車 只有部分型號

第二個條件:你部車收唔收到

這一步比電錶箱更多人忽略。車的車載充電器(OBC)才是真正的上限。 裝了 22kW 樁,車的 OBC 上限是 11kW,它就只會收 11kW —— 多出來的一半,你付了錢但用不到。

目前明確支援 22kW 三相 AC 的型號並不多,而且經常是選配:

  • Renault Zoe(R110 / R135 配 Chameleon 三相充電機)
  • Smart #1 / #3(部分配置)
  • Mercedes-Benz EQS / EQS SUV(可選 22kW OBC,要加錢)
  • Audi e-tron / e-tron GT、Porsche Taycan(部分市場可選)
  • Lotus Eletre / Emeya、Maserati Folgore 系列(部分版本標配)
  • Polestar 4 Long Range、Zeekr 001(部分版本)

以下是最多人問、但上限多數是 11kW 或以下的熱門車:

  • Tesla Model 3 / Y / S / X(多數市場 11kW)
  • BMW i4 / iX / i7(通常 11kW)
  • Hyundai IONIQ 5 / Kia EV6(多為 11kW)
  • VW ID.3 / ID.4 / ID.5 / ID.7(多為 11kW)
  • BYD Atto 3(近年多市場為 7kW 或 11kW)

查法很簡單:車主手冊或原廠規格表找「AC 最大充電功率」,同時看清楚寫的是單相還是三相。這一步花五分鐘,可以省幾千蚊。

三個真實情境

情境 1:夜晚充電為主,每日行少於 100 公里

7kW 單相。 隔夜泊 10 小時,7kW 可以入 70 度電,比大部分車的整個電池還多。工程簡單、成本最低、幾乎全部車都支援。

情境 2:日間要回程再出車

跑生意、送貨、接送小朋友,中午回家泊一個鐘再出去。這一個鐘 7kW 補約 7 度,22kW 補約 22 度 —— 這是 22kW 唯一真正贏 7kW 的情境。但前提仍然是你部車收得到。

情境 3:一個車位、兩部電動車

兩部車輪流充,總需求翻倍,三相就有意思。不過留意另一條路:三相供電也可以分兩個單相回路,兩部車各 7kW 同時充,總共 14kW —— 對兩部 OBC 上限 11kW 的車來說,這個做法比一個 22kW 樁實用得多。

如果要升級三相,實際上要做什麼

升級三相不是「加錢買好一點的機」,是一項獨立工程:

  1. 向中電或港燈申請三相供電及/或加大批准負荷;
  2. 由註冊電業承辦商提交負載計算;
  3. 可能需要更換供電線、電錶箱及主開關;
  4. 電力公司安排掛錶。

時間上要預 2–3 個月,費用另計。如果你本來就因為全屋負載不足要做這項工程,那麼順道上三相的邊際成本就低很多;如果純粹為了充電快一點,先回去看情境 1。

村屋安裝的完整次序

  1. 現場評估 —— 傳車位、電錶箱、走線環境的相片或影片;情況複雜就上門勘查。
  2. 定方案 —— 按現有供電(單相/三相)及車輛 OBC 上限,決定 7kW、11kW 還是 22kW。
  3. 電錶安排 —— 用回原有電錶(夾線),還是申請獨立電錶。詳見共用電錶定獨立電錶?計清楚長遠電費先決定。申請獨立電錶或三相升級,要預 2–3 個月。
  4. 佈線 —— 戶外走線要決定用裝甲線還是燈喉,這一篇有詳細比較。
  5. 安裝及測試 —— 由註冊電業工程人員安裝、測試,並簽發 WR1 完工紙。
  6. 掛錶啟用。

村屋的連機安裝價錢、包含項目及獨立電錶的加項,全部列在安裝價錢表;完整流程則在村屋及獨立屋安裝頁。

一句話總結

先看電錶箱有幾多條火線,再查車主手冊的 AC 上限。兩個答案都指向三相,才值得談 22kW。

不肯定自己那個是單相還是三相?WhatsApp 傳一張電錶箱相片給我們,我們看一眼就答到你,順便告訴你走線大概要幾長。

Village house owners almost always get stuck in the same place: "should I fit 7kW or 22kW?"

There are two questions hiding in that one. The first is "how fast do I need to be" — we've answered that separately, working backwards from the hours you're parked, and the answer is usually 7kW: 7kW or 22kW? Most people don't need 22.

The second is "what can I actually have" — and that one is specific to village houses, because their supply arrangements vary far more than an estate's, and the answer is hanging on your outside wall. This article is about the second question.

Go and look at the meter box

No meter, no paperwork. Stand in front of the box and look at two things: how many conductors leave your meter, and what the meter is labelled.

An outdoor village house meter cabinet with three single-phase meters, each with its own fuse carrier A typical village meter cabinet. One single-phase meter per household, each with a single live and neutral, and one fuse carrier beneath it.

Single-phase looks like this: one live and one neutral out of the meter, usually a single fuse or single-pole switch below it, labelled 220V or 230V.

An opened three-phase village meter box — three meters, banks of fuse carriers and isolators Three-phase is obvious once the door is open: three lives running separately, and fuse carriers and isolators appearing in groups rather than singly.

Three-phase looks like this: three lives and a neutral, with a row (three or four) of fuses and isolators behind the meter, labelled 380V or 400V.

One thing that catches people out: three-phase in the cabinet doesn't mean three-phase at your house. Village cabinets are often shared, and three separate single-phase meters sitting side by side look like three-phase from a distance. What matters is how many lives leave your meter.

What actually differs

7kW single-phase 22kW three-phase
Supply Single-phase 220–230V Three-phase 380–400V
Current 32A 32A × 3
60kWh battery, full ~8–10 hours ~3–4 hours
How common in village houses Most already have it Less common; usually an upgrade
Works involved Relatively simple May pull in a supply upgrade
Cars that support it Nearly all EVs Only some models

The second condition: can your car take it?

This is the step people skip. The car's on-board charger is the real ceiling. Fit a 22kW unit to a car whose OBC caps at 11kW and it draws 11kW — you paid for half a charger you can't use.

Models that genuinely support 22kW three-phase AC are a short list, and it's often an option rather than standard:

  • Renault Zoe (R110 / R135 with the Chameleon three-phase charger)
  • Smart #1 / #3 (some configurations)
  • Mercedes-Benz EQS / EQS SUV (22kW OBC at extra cost)
  • Audi e-tron / e-tron GT, Porsche Taycan (optional in some markets)
  • Lotus Eletre / Emeya, Maserati Folgore range (standard on some versions)
  • Polestar 4 Long Range, Zeekr 001 (some versions)

And the popular cars people ask about most, which mostly cap at 11kW or below:

  • Tesla Model 3 / Y / S / X (11kW in most markets)
  • BMW i4 / iX / i7 (usually 11kW)
  • Hyundai IONIQ 5 / Kia EV6 (mostly 11kW)
  • VW ID.3 / ID.4 / ID.5 / ID.7 (mostly 11kW)
  • BYD Atto 3 (7kW or 11kW in most recent markets)

Checking takes five minutes: the owner's manual or the manufacturer's spec sheet, under "maximum AC charging power", and note whether it says single- or three-phase. Five minutes that can save you thousands.

Three real situations

1. Overnight charging, under 100km a day

7kW single-phase. Ten hours parked at 7kW is about 70 kWh — more than most cars' whole battery. Simplest works, lowest cost, supported by nearly every EV.

2. You go back out during the day

Running a business, deliveries, school runs — home at midday for an hour and out again. That hour is about 7 kWh at 7kW against 22 kWh at 22kW. This is the one situation where 22kW genuinely wins, and it still depends on the car.

3. One bay, two EVs

Two cars sharing the supply doubles the demand and three-phase starts to make sense. But consider the other route: a three-phase supply can be split into two single-phase circuits, giving both cars 7kW at once for 14kW total — far more useful than one 22kW unit if both cars cap at 11kW anyway.

What upgrading to three-phase really involves

It isn't "pay more for a better unit". It's a separate project:

  1. Apply to CLP or HK Electric for a three-phase supply and/or a higher approved load;
  2. Have a registered electrical contractor submit the load calculation;
  3. Possibly replace the supply cable, meter box and main switch;
  4. Wait for the power company to fit the meter.

Allow two to three months, and budget for it separately. If the house needs the upgrade anyway because the overall load is short, the marginal cost of going three-phase at the same time is low. If it's purely to charge faster, go back and read situation 1.

The order of a village installation

  1. Assessment — send photos or a video of the bay, the meter box and the cable route; a survey if it's complicated.
  2. Decide the spec — 7kW, 11kW or 22kW, based on the existing supply and the car's OBC limit.
  3. Sort the meter — run off the existing meter, or apply for a dedicated one. See shared or dedicated meter — do the long-term maths first. A dedicated meter or a three-phase upgrade takes two to three months.
  4. Cable route — outdoors, that means armoured cable or PVC conduit; we compare them here.
  5. Install and test — installed and tested by a registered electrical worker, with a WR1 certificate issued.
  6. Meter fitted, charging starts.

Installed pricing for village houses, what it covers, and the extra for a dedicated meter are all on the price list; the full procedure is on the village and detached house page.

In one line

Count the lives at your meter, then check your car's AC limit. Only when both point to three-phase is 22kW worth discussing.

Not sure which one you have? WhatsApp us a photo of the meter box — we can tell at a glance, and give you a sense of the cable run while we're at it.

有問題想查詢?Got a question?

不一定要幫襯才可以查詢。傳送你的情況給我們,我們一樣會回答。You don't have to be a customer to ask. Send us your situation and we'll answer anyway.

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